8/15. The Eagles have landed!

Hi good morning.  Yes flights right.  Icelandic Air, 7:20pm or so for arrival   Then it takes extra time to pick up baggage through customs. 

Wished you could have soaked in the healing waters of the Lagoon.  Our bathing suits are stiff this morning from all the minerals!   

    

On our last day Taran and I are going horseback riding to visit an old lighthouse.  Then pack up. There is a 4 hr difference in time.  Our plane leaves around 5 Iceland time. 

As it turned out it rained the whole horse ride but it was fun. Taran's horse was kind of wild and wouldn't stop neighing until he was out of sight of the barn. 

Just barely made it to the plane.  Ride was pretty turbulent but arrived at Logan on time. Customs took another hour or so. There were 300 people going through. 

It's so warm here compared to Iceland. And the night is dark not light!  And there are trees!  Have many happy memories and great photos but its nice to be back home. 

Len's Iceland Text 9 -- 8/14

Hi gang!  We picked the right night to find a "guest house" after sleeping in the tent at 32F.  It poured rain and the wind came up.  Glad we were indoors for a change.

In the morning we rented ATVS  and spent 8 hrs driving.  We went through all kinds of terrain including beaches, sand dunes, mountain tops, and the open road too. I was very impressed how Taran drove, like a real professional.   

We saw where the Great Rift in Iceland is.  It separates more every year.  One side of the bridge rift belongs to Europe, the other side North America.  Thats why its so volcanic here.

It rained a lot during the day but seemed to make the mountains and clouds stand out even more beautifully. We had rain gear and helmets with visits so no problem.  I swear at times we were driving motorboats, because the puddles were as long and deep as a river.   

Stopped half way through the day and had some famous Icelandic lobster stew perhaps the best we ever tasted!   The ATV's were fast.  We passed the local traffic a few times. Mostly it was really fun.  

Then we went out for supper to the Lava Restaurant at the Blue Lagoon.  The Lagoon is the Grandaddy of all thermal pools.  At least two football fields with volcanic rock around the sides.  The water is bright blue because of all the silicate in it, and it is salt water.  There is a sorriociss clinic there, as the water is apparently very medicinal.  

My hair was spiked up like a porcupine this morning. Taran said his skin felt rejuvinated. We must be new men!  Ha. Stayed in there for two or three hrs. Forgot all about the aches and pains from the ride. 

Winding down.  In Reykjavik today.     Tomorrow maybe a horse ride to an old lighthouse.  Then we will see you.  Miss home and all you guys.  Love Len and Taran

 
Sent from my iPhone

8/11 Len's Iceland Text 8

Saturday. We had stayed at a beautiful campground above the city of Hvammstang, on the seal coast.  Ate  breakfast in the port. Had fish balls, a true delicacy  Taran had the most unusual burrito we've ever seen, or tasted!  

Did a lot of driving. Covered the whole  peninsula called the "western fiords".   Like James Bond driving in those Italian alps, except it was raining and muddy and of course no guard rails. Taran drove exceptionally fast, I mean exceptionally well, and was cautious.  

Our car was completely colored brown.  Guess we would have looked like one of the sheep at the bottom of the hill if we rolled.  Sheep everywhere.  Taran rolls the window down and talks to them. With altogether too much regularity.  I am worried about him. 

Drove extra miles to find a hot spring by a river.  Had to hike to get there.  It was beautiful.  Many fjords and dirt roads. Probably our longest day driving.  

9:am to midnight.  

In Isofjordur where we had supper. (Cheeseburgers again) the owner told us of another secret hot spring next to the ocean in Flokalundur.  So we ended up there at midnight, found the spot and soaked for an hour.  It was in the cliffs next to the sea alright.  Tried to wait out the rain to pitch camp but no dice.  We felt so good after the hot tub it gave us strength and warmth to get to bed.  

I got up early and brought our laundry to the office where they wash, dry and fold it for 5 Kronur!  Had a coffee, washed the car (freest gas stations), repacked.  

Then picked up Taran for that hot spring.  After breakfast we boarded a ferry.  On it now, 4 hrs across bay.  We are headed slowly toward Reykjabik.  Port called Stykkishoimur. 

It's hard to ask directions to towns. What part of Bakkafloafguip didn't you understand ? !!

A real volcano.  Oozing mud and rocks.  What great respect we have for these mts and glaciers.  Good to be two strong.  Some scenery now.  Gotta go. Missed a turn. I love you all. Len

8/10 Lens Iceland Text 7

Hi gang.    Taran and I drove a back road half way around a peninsula to experience yet another natural hot spring.  Original stone pools.  Quite nice.   

Something about this country. Was going to say desolate country, but remote is better  Most every town has a public "swimming pool" which means a geothermal one.  For two or three kronur they let the Giajiin in. So there is some warmth here 

Surprisingly with all the travelers here we've only met one or two people from the states. What's that all about ?!!  Maybe  the  climate and camping have something to do with it.  

    

We journeyed onto a breeding ground for seals. If it wasn't for Taran to say wait,  we might have missed three seals that came very close to us.  They seemed curious and began talking.  Then THEY BLEW BUNCHES OF BUBBLES IN THE WATER!!  What a hoot!  I never heard anything like it. 

  

Retired early tonight. 12am.  Had a game if chess in a nice campground we found.  Tomorrow headed to West Iceland.  Not sure what's there.  Over for now.  Len and Taran

PS. Hot springs are different everywhere.  Lots of them they have built pools around or even hot tubs, but all are geothermal.  They don't smell much but are packed with minerals. Supposed to be good for your body. The big (20 to 30 meter)  swimming pools are usually quite warm, approx 36*C. The temps on the others  39 to 42*C , that's 98 to 105*F.    Obviously everything is metric here and it becomes easier to think that way.  The hot springs are all clear not cloudy. 

       

Haven't seen ANY stars at night.  Has been cloudy all the evenings...usually sprinkled some rain every night. Also it never really gets dark out.  Not much hope of seeing the Aurora

     

So we are in the Northwest of Iceland. Though they call it the West. In a couple days we'll head toward Reykjavik

     

Don't know why but rhe seals sure seemed curious about us! The bubbles and the talking were one if the most beautiful things I've ever seen. Have to thank Taran for having us wait for awhile, otherwise would have missed it.  

Headed early to Hvammstangi, a seal museum and Visitor Center there.   

    

8/9 Len's Iceland Text 6

Slow boat to China yesterday, not in a rush. Stopped at Goddafoss Falls, a most powerful sight, the rushing falls crashing through a volcanic canyon. Took Jarad's and Sue's advice to just sit with ourselves, so we sat for two hrs absorbing the sounds, rainbows and mists of the falls 

Did some trucking to our next destination  Varmahlio where we would white water canoe all today.  Began to rain so we stayed in a "guest house" which is basic beds with no linen and a common bathroom. Dry and warm anyway! 

Today Class 4 rapids with excitable Nepalese  guides.  Class 4 means very big and fast waves.  Boats tipped over.  People floated off downstream.  They say, "Don't panic and be sure to smile as you float on your back".  

What I didn't tell you is we had dry suits on.  Then the guide says "anyone want to jump?"  Into a raging gray river from a rock 30 feet high?  Taran was the first to volunteer!  My heart sank when he plunged pencil style into the river. He popped up 10 seconds later and swam to shore.  Oh my god.    

After this I had to follow suit, otherwise be embarrassed by #3 son, so we became friends with the river.   It was ok to fall out of the boat and not think you were going to die.  

We are just finishing dinner at a coastal town called  Hofsos.   Heard about a hot  spring on the side of a mountain overlooking the bay.  Spent 2 hrs there recuperating !   

Iceland is cool.  No such thing here as a large cup of coffee.  They are all small and cost 3 Kronur (around $3.5).   Hasn't  been a cup below a  9.3 !  The Icelandic people are thrifty. Two buttons to choose  from to flush toilets # 1 or #2. 

Headed north tonight around a peninsula   Can fit a lot in, in an evening that stays lit till 11pm!  Anyway we are safe and well and in good spirits.  See you all in a week. Love Len and Taran

8/8 Taran's Iceland Text 2

It's raining a little bit, so we decided to spend the night in a hotel.  It's pretty nice just to be dry and warm and cozy. And we are definitely getting your texts, they are much appreciated! Am falling asleep now! Today we saw some amazing waterfalls! Tomorrow we go white water rafting! Love ya!

8/7 Len's Iceland Text 5

Hi there from Troll land!  Took some hikes today through very strange country.   Outcroppings of lava, looking and feeling like Easter Island. Taran took his own hike through a thermal basin and came back with clay packed boots. Looked like Herman Munster's !  

Big adventure today. We went whale watching on a "jet boat" out of Husavik.   800 horses blasting over 15 ft swells.   Just that was worth it!  THE BEST and most exciting roller coaster ride we've ever been on!   We  literally FLEW !

Came along side six whales. One minky, the rest humpbacks.   Got to breath their spray and hear their huge lungs blow in and out...like deep tanks.  It was an honor to be so close to them.  No wonder they are called gentle giants. 

Our boat held 12 passengers. Taran and I sat in front.  Had to wear heavy survival suits just in case. But we could spot a blow hundreds of feet away, and be there in seconds the boat was so fast!  Blue whales are sighted from time to time, though we didn't see any. 

Cruised around "Puffin Island" and learned a lot about these birds. Very cute with big red orange beaks.  Their beaks supposedly are too big for them to fly. 8 months of the year they are out to sea and never see land.  They come to this island to mate.  They dig a hole in the cliffs, get married and return to same home every year ! 

Ended our day in our favorite cave hot springs.  Soaked for an hour. Now need to face the cold night in the tent.  But not so bad. Once we get covered. 

Oh last thing.  Iceland is not for everyone.  There is a reason everyone wears Icelandic sweaters. That's why the only animals we see are sheep.  TO KEEP WARM! !    

All for now.  Do wish you were all here despite the cold nights. Much love.  Len and Taran

Ps.   Taran has read two books.  We read in between beautiful scenery. It is so good to see him absorbed in books again!

8/6 Len's Iceland text 4

Hi there everyone!   Stayed at a bed and breakfast last night. Woke up this morning to 3 degrees C and a driving cold rainstorm.  All of Iceland seemed two colors  today...grey and brown.  

Visited Dettifoss Falls. Biggest volume waterfall in all of Europe.  Had to wear rain gear all day. The water churned so fast it created heavy mist on the far banks and created their own waterfalls  

Then drove some northern peninsulas and finally discovered some hot springs in caves where we warmed up for hours.  Icelandic sweaters are around but there are so many better materials on the market they don't seem as popular.   Can you think of anyone who would wear  one?  Taran got a brown one.  He looks like a native!   

May go whale watching tomorrow in coastal town.  Funny but they don't allow whale to be on the menu there!  It's midnight and we can still see stuff in our tent.   Hope you are all good at home. 

Kind of a tough place here in Iceland but we like it.   Oh saw a thermal basin and a huge field of  black spatter cones. Very picturesque 

     So all for now.  We are hitting the hey and will probably sleep in tomorrow morning.   We love you all.  See you in about a week, love Len

8/5 Taran's Iceland Text 1

Hey mom, love ya! Dad and I are having quite a bit of fun here, it's incredibly beautiful! 

Lol lennie has been getting his rear kicked in chess too.  I remember when I was five and we played, that was a fair game then...  Now... Not so much. Haha. 

Hope things are good home on the range. Miss you and our house and our dogs. Tonight is the first night we are spending inside a building, exciting!!!!! We stopped in at a hostel-hotel. Very nice to be out of the howling wind. Love you and take care

8/5 Len's Iceland Text 3

Good God  good day.  I know  I'm starting to relax when I'm not sure what the day is!   

We are meandering up west coast like either gypsies or pirates.  There are  "swimming pools" with hot springs in many of the towns  we just spent a couple hrs in one in Djupivogur a small fishing village.   

Had a tough night last night in tent.  Wind was so strong it flapped all night hitting us in the head!  This morning as we took it down it flew off in the wind. Had to chase it down a long way.  They actually issue wind warnings which we are going through now  20 km /second.  Go figure.  Too much for a kite.  

Headed to Icelands biggest forest. Oh yesterday saw icebergs floating down a river from end of glacier. The glacier was truly alive talking to us.  You could hear water rushing and snow chunks falling off!  Pretty damn wild.  

So Tarans waiting to drive. Had a cheese burger. Can't quite order whale, horse or puffin  at least not yet!   Ok. Bye for now. Much love to you and the whole family. Len

8/4 Len's Iceland Text 2

It's alive....it's ALIVE. !!  The glacier was moving and melting below our feet !  Big crevasses    We had to walk tied in in some places    Had crampons otherwise no way to walk on ice.   Our ice picks were made in Nepal.  Was worried we were going to have to send you a carrier pigeon   The guide. had to find an alternative return route 

Headed to west coast on way to hidden hot springs in hills.

Taran is doing great at driving.   Can't look down or I'll miss some surreal sight.   I love you all.  Len

8/3. Len's Text #1 from ICELAND!

Since Len and Taran Pretty much left for Iceland right after Jarad and I got home, thought I'd continue the blog with their almost daily texts. Enjoy!!

(BTW -- no photos)

Hi !   We  camped below a glacier last night and are going on  an expedition shortly.    There are free hot springs to go in most days.  The sights are constantly astounding   We actually turned back on a road to a lake after crossing  the third river in our car. Can you believe we both agreed to turn around ?!!

We get up late as it never gets dark so the nights last longer.   I think Taran is catching up on a summer of exhaustion!   Can't seem to send you pictures.   Sorry.   

Seeing this glacier is a religious experience  for me!   No customers no phones. Just us and God! I know you'd like it here.  Hope this text gets  to you and will keep in touch.   Taran is driving the stick shift like a pro.  Len

8/3 Day of Reckoning!!

Jarad and I have been back ten days -- physically!  Our minds and hearts are still on the road every day.  

We're finding solace among the usual mundane chores by putting together a slide show in four parts:  

1) Greenfield to the Tetons including Yellowstone.

2) Dinosaur Natl Park to Glen Canyon including Bryce and Zion.

3) the Grand Canyon through Colorado including Mesa Verde, Durango Silverton RR, and Great Sand Dunes Natl Park.

4) Kansas to Greenfield again, which includes Chicago and Michigan. 

But I'm not writing this blog entry about us. I'm writing this blog about YOU!  Remember our challenge when we left?  (If not, see Day 2!)  

Seriously, though.  We asked our friends and family to join us in a car trek National Parks CHALLENGE!  To choose an silly option and make a donation to the National Park Foundation. 

Well -- now is "The Day of Reckoning!"  Here are some of the trip statistics on which to base your donation amount:

A penny per mile traveled -- 8280 miles, or $82.80. 

# of Natl Parks visited -- 20 @ $1 each

# of times Jarad played his bagpipes in a National Park -- 23 @ $1 each

# of gas stops -- 20 @ .25 each or $5

# of pit stops -- uncountable!  Sorry!

# of books on tape finished -- 1 @ $5!  

# of times it rained -- many, many!

# times we got angry w/each other -- 4 :(

We were right about the National Parks needing help. They are SO beautiful!  But we saw understaffing, road disrepair, theft of fossils and petrified wood, the closing of educational museums, etc. Some parks like the Tetons and Mesa Verde were begging for donations. 

It's absolutely brilliant that so many natural wonders have been preserved.  These places are American treasures!  But they need protecting. From coal companies wanting to mine near Bryce, spoiling the clear night sky... and so on. 

So here's the information again:

You can donate online at:

donorservices@nationalparks.org

Or by snail mail:

National Park Foundation

1201 I (Eye) Street NW Suite 550B

Washington DC 26005

Or call:  202-354-6970 donors, or

202-354-6460 info

We hope you'll see this as paying something forward for when YOU visit one or more of these marvels!  They're our there waiting for you!!

Lots of love and thanks, Jarad and Sue

PS We donated to the top three (and most fun) -- miles, parks, and piping!  

7/30 Thanks Len!

My journey has filled me to overflowing with gratitude -- to God and to life and to the marvelous Earth. We live in an Eden that we don't stop to see, and need to open our traveler's eyes every day to the uncountable wonders and blessings surrounding us. 

But I especially give my gratitude to Len, who not only supported and funded our "car trek," but kept our home and yard, and animals and plants, in tip top shape. He sorted mail, paid bills, and did all those many other household tasks in addition to his usual hard work at the tire store.  

Thanks for letting me commemorate my 60th year in such a special way. Hope your trip to Iceland is equally inspiring!

 

(Our home in Bangor Michigan 1976-78.) 

7/29 -- Thanks Jarad!

The best part of the entire trip West for me was sharing it with Jarad. He was so enthusiastic about everything!  The parks, the scenery, the animals, the food, the people -- and even the driving!!  

Jarad was a great travel buddy, because he encouraged me to push my limits with the hikes and swims and mule ride. And the 32 foot wooden ladder up to Balcony House at Mesa Verde!  Yet he also respected my limits when I was tired.

He was the chief baggage schlepper, gas pumper, and music meister.  Anyone who can jump out of a car at a moment's notice and play bagpipes is pretty special 

With his eagle eyes, Jarad was the one to spot details, especially wild animals. Then he took the most amazing photos!

Jarad also did more than half the driving. 

But what meant the most to me was Jarad's patience. He never rushed me to leave a beautiful scene (or fun gift shop!)

Our paces were in sync, from bedtimes to rising times to meal times. We could sit together in silence taking in our favorite views. And Jarad put up with, even joined in with, my reminiscences. 

Bless you Jarad. Thank you!  I love you!  Let's do it again sometime soon!  

7/26 Pics Part 3

Wrapping up the unblogged photos:

Jarad contemplating the infinite...

To infinity -- and beyond!

One of my favorite flower combos -- asters and Queen Anne's Lace. They line the streets in Michigan!

Lifelike Impressionism!

Final mile tally!

7/26 Pics Part 2

More pics that didn't make the blog:

I was thinking so hard at Old Faithful, my brain started to overheat!

Our mirror mascot from home...

The sunset crowd at the Grand Canyon!

California condors aren't pretty up close!

Fried ice cream as big as your head 545.

Kissing ravens!

7/25 -- Don't go away! Pics Part 1

Going to post a few pictures that didn't make it on the blog. 

In the middle of the USA Day 2!

Sunrise clouds over Badlands Day 3...

Yellowstone Lodge tourist bus Day 7...

How many hummingbirds?  At the ho'made pie restaurant outside Zion...

Clouds over red desert are pink beneath!

The burrito as big as your head!

My emergency haircut at Walmart in Paige AZ!

Day 32!!! 7/24 -- HOME

Jarad drove all the way from Sandusky Ohio to Greenfield, about ten hours straight, with one lunch, one gas, and two pit stops.  The green forested hills and Massachusetts border were -- well, a welcome sight!  

Arrived home at 9 pm. Our odometer topped out in the driveway at 8280 total miles!  Wow!!  Thank you, dear Odyssey!  Even with three big boxes sent home, we still had a lot to unpack -- mostly rocks!

This is the view I'm looking at now from my bed. Romeo has found the warmest, softest spot in the house -- my belly!  He's purring and staying close. Cats hate to admit such things, but I think he missed me!  The air is refreshingly cool tonight, and it's good to not be in motion. Home. Sweet, familiar home.  Praise be!

Things we've learned on Cartrek 2013

Here are some things we've learned on our travels, in no particular order:

If a sign says 15mph around this curve out West, believe it. 

People in Mississippi and Rhode Island don't travel far (given the fact that we had all 47 states' license plates, except for Hawaii, since the Grand Canyon... Didn't see RI until today in NY!)

Being late + hunger + fatigue = CRANKY

Nice scenery + being in the moment + 

     sugar = HAPPY

If you don't like the weather -- drive!  

Jarad starts to imitate Mickey Mouse when he gets tired. 

Elks' preferred diet is lawn grass. 

Waiting in line for 5 hours in 100 degree weather is a drag -- even if it's for your favorite rock band. 

A two and a half hour rain delay at an outdoor rock concert is also a drag. 

The book "Great Gatsby" is a lot longer than the movie -- and a lot worse!

The last mules in line get the dust.  Bring a bandanna. 

If you get a bota, rinse it out with lemon juice (unless you like the taste of plastic). 

Don't stand on a sand dune in a lightning storm. Or on an 8500' Mesa top. 

Don't depend on there to be guardrails or fences in National Parks. Watch out for slippery cliff edges, especially in Bryce, Badlands, Grand Canyon, Yellowstone...

There are many many more stars in the night sky than we can possibly see in the Northeast US. 

Sequestration stinks. The National Parks need our support -- financially and legislatively. 

 

The Curiosity Shop Part 4

Now that we are safely back in the land of flush porcelain toilets, we would like to share some words about the biggest travel peril:  public bathrooms!

Aside from the fact that sometimes there just ARE NO bathrooms, the ones you do encounter can be sketchy or even frightening. 

Take the outhouse full of 8" lizards that Jarad wandered into. Unnerving!  Keeps you on your toes!

Or when he used the outhouse with a one ton bison standing outside the door.  Or when I dodged torrential rain and bolts of lightning bolts to get to there.  

Worse, you discover various combinations of amenities, or lack thereof. No hand sanitizer?  No tp?  No doorlock? No door?

And pulleez people!  Do not place outhouses in the sun!  Unless of course there is no shade, like most of the Southwest. Or the 110 degree heat at the bottom of Glen Canyon.  Smells tend to ferment to explosive levels.  It's either pass out from the heat in there, or pass out from the gases. 

And there's your constant. Odors. A wide assortment -- and all pretty much bad.  Gotta be fast. And able to hold your breath as long as it takes. 

Somebody had to tell you the Truth. It might as well come from friends. 

 

By the way, in case your mother never told you, even with flush toilets -- please don't drink the water inside it, no matter how clean it appears -- or how thirsty you are!

The Curiosity Shop Part 3

Today we'll take a look at some oddities we've encountered in the past 31 days:

Buffalo Phil's Restaurant -- delivers food to your table via model trains!

Astronaut Deke Sampson's Space and Bicycle Museum

La Bamba Restaurant -- Burritos as big as your head!

Full Throttle Sloonshine Moonshine Whiskey

Shivers and Jitters Coffee Shop

Kleinschmidt's Bootery -- over 19,000 pairs of boots!

Billboard saying just "J C NAZ" an ad for the Jesus Christ of Nazareth Churchl

Also observed:

Western playgrounds have extensive rock climbing installations to start young!

Buffalo Biil Cody's traveling show toured enough miles to go around the world once. They even had a shows in Holyoke 

and Greenfield Mass!

Cholula Hot Sauce comes in packets right alongside mustard and mayo!

On Interstate 40 across AZ you are allowed to bicycle along the median!  We saw some hardy cyclists doing just that!

 

And sobering but effective:

Meth Neighborhood Watch signs in Mich. 

Signs along Colorado roads "In memory of (a person's name). Please drive safely"

"Weapons make sense for self defense"

And our favorite:  "Flap Jack Shack" -- Say that three times fast!

 

DAY 31!!! Michigan to Ohio...

We stayed in Grand Rapids to see the Frederick Meijer Botanical Garden today. It's rated #5 in the US (Maine's in Booth Bay is #1). But this one is foremost a sculpture garden of monumental scale.  Our intended hour long visit became an almost day long visit!

Here are the Meijers, in bronze. What a generous legacy they've left!  

Look close those are people underneath! Below Jarad is standing slightly in front. 

Meijer arranged for an unfinished DaVinci statue to finally be cast -- in 15 tons of bronze!  Then presented an identical one to DaVinci's home town of Milan!

There are more than 200 works, from Rodin to contemporary artists like Nina Akamu, who produced the horse.  Many have their own botanical "room" outside. 

"Neuron" is a model of a real brain cell. 

A mobile in a field of prairie flowers. 

Jarad taking pics under a metal freeform.

One of our favorites -- a family grouping of what we dubbed "Hopsquatch."

A huge indoor conservatory with rain forest, Victorian, cactus, and carnivorous gardens, in front of which stands "Mom." She ushers visitors into the absolute best Children's Garden anywhere!

A to-scale Great Lakes water play area!  Did you know the water in all 5 combined would cover the whole US one foot deep!

Friendly dragons, bears, beavers, and every kind of farm animal...

You get the idea. We were entranced!  The cafe even had Chihuly glass flowers in a rainbow swath adorning the ceiling!  

Then on the road 350 miles to Sandusky Ohio.  The highway of triple trailer trucks! We are staying at a special water park hotel. Spent an hour hiking up 3 flights of steps to tube down several long sinuous slides. Jarad and I went double twice -- double the weight, double the velocity!  

Tomorrow, though, we'll have to get serious about getting home...