8/15. The Eagles have landed!

Hi good morning.  Yes flights right.  Icelandic Air, 7:20pm or so for arrival   Then it takes extra time to pick up baggage through customs. 

Wished you could have soaked in the healing waters of the Lagoon.  Our bathing suits are stiff this morning from all the minerals!   

    

On our last day Taran and I are going horseback riding to visit an old lighthouse.  Then pack up. There is a 4 hr difference in time.  Our plane leaves around 5 Iceland time. 

As it turned out it rained the whole horse ride but it was fun. Taran's horse was kind of wild and wouldn't stop neighing until he was out of sight of the barn. 

Just barely made it to the plane.  Ride was pretty turbulent but arrived at Logan on time. Customs took another hour or so. There were 300 people going through. 

It's so warm here compared to Iceland. And the night is dark not light!  And there are trees!  Have many happy memories and great photos but its nice to be back home. 

Len's Iceland Text 9 -- 8/14

Hi gang!  We picked the right night to find a "guest house" after sleeping in the tent at 32F.  It poured rain and the wind came up.  Glad we were indoors for a change.

In the morning we rented ATVS  and spent 8 hrs driving.  We went through all kinds of terrain including beaches, sand dunes, mountain tops, and the open road too. I was very impressed how Taran drove, like a real professional.   

We saw where the Great Rift in Iceland is.  It separates more every year.  One side of the bridge rift belongs to Europe, the other side North America.  Thats why its so volcanic here.

It rained a lot during the day but seemed to make the mountains and clouds stand out even more beautifully. We had rain gear and helmets with visits so no problem.  I swear at times we were driving motorboats, because the puddles were as long and deep as a river.   

Stopped half way through the day and had some famous Icelandic lobster stew perhaps the best we ever tasted!   The ATV's were fast.  We passed the local traffic a few times. Mostly it was really fun.  

Then we went out for supper to the Lava Restaurant at the Blue Lagoon.  The Lagoon is the Grandaddy of all thermal pools.  At least two football fields with volcanic rock around the sides.  The water is bright blue because of all the silicate in it, and it is salt water.  There is a sorriociss clinic there, as the water is apparently very medicinal.  

My hair was spiked up like a porcupine this morning. Taran said his skin felt rejuvinated. We must be new men!  Ha. Stayed in there for two or three hrs. Forgot all about the aches and pains from the ride. 

Winding down.  In Reykjavik today.     Tomorrow maybe a horse ride to an old lighthouse.  Then we will see you.  Miss home and all you guys.  Love Len and Taran

 
Sent from my iPhone

8/11 Len's Iceland Text 8

Saturday. We had stayed at a beautiful campground above the city of Hvammstang, on the seal coast.  Ate  breakfast in the port. Had fish balls, a true delicacy  Taran had the most unusual burrito we've ever seen, or tasted!  

Did a lot of driving. Covered the whole  peninsula called the "western fiords".   Like James Bond driving in those Italian alps, except it was raining and muddy and of course no guard rails. Taran drove exceptionally fast, I mean exceptionally well, and was cautious.  

Our car was completely colored brown.  Guess we would have looked like one of the sheep at the bottom of the hill if we rolled.  Sheep everywhere.  Taran rolls the window down and talks to them. With altogether too much regularity.  I am worried about him. 

Drove extra miles to find a hot spring by a river.  Had to hike to get there.  It was beautiful.  Many fjords and dirt roads. Probably our longest day driving.  

9:am to midnight.  

In Isofjordur where we had supper. (Cheeseburgers again) the owner told us of another secret hot spring next to the ocean in Flokalundur.  So we ended up there at midnight, found the spot and soaked for an hour.  It was in the cliffs next to the sea alright.  Tried to wait out the rain to pitch camp but no dice.  We felt so good after the hot tub it gave us strength and warmth to get to bed.  

I got up early and brought our laundry to the office where they wash, dry and fold it for 5 Kronur!  Had a coffee, washed the car (freest gas stations), repacked.  

Then picked up Taran for that hot spring.  After breakfast we boarded a ferry.  On it now, 4 hrs across bay.  We are headed slowly toward Reykjabik.  Port called Stykkishoimur. 

It's hard to ask directions to towns. What part of Bakkafloafguip didn't you understand ? !!

A real volcano.  Oozing mud and rocks.  What great respect we have for these mts and glaciers.  Good to be two strong.  Some scenery now.  Gotta go. Missed a turn. I love you all. Len

8/10 Lens Iceland Text 7

Hi gang.    Taran and I drove a back road half way around a peninsula to experience yet another natural hot spring.  Original stone pools.  Quite nice.   

Something about this country. Was going to say desolate country, but remote is better  Most every town has a public "swimming pool" which means a geothermal one.  For two or three kronur they let the Giajiin in. So there is some warmth here 

Surprisingly with all the travelers here we've only met one or two people from the states. What's that all about ?!!  Maybe  the  climate and camping have something to do with it.  

    

We journeyed onto a breeding ground for seals. If it wasn't for Taran to say wait,  we might have missed three seals that came very close to us.  They seemed curious and began talking.  Then THEY BLEW BUNCHES OF BUBBLES IN THE WATER!!  What a hoot!  I never heard anything like it. 

  

Retired early tonight. 12am.  Had a game if chess in a nice campground we found.  Tomorrow headed to West Iceland.  Not sure what's there.  Over for now.  Len and Taran

PS. Hot springs are different everywhere.  Lots of them they have built pools around or even hot tubs, but all are geothermal.  They don't smell much but are packed with minerals. Supposed to be good for your body. The big (20 to 30 meter)  swimming pools are usually quite warm, approx 36*C. The temps on the others  39 to 42*C , that's 98 to 105*F.    Obviously everything is metric here and it becomes easier to think that way.  The hot springs are all clear not cloudy. 

       

Haven't seen ANY stars at night.  Has been cloudy all the evenings...usually sprinkled some rain every night. Also it never really gets dark out.  Not much hope of seeing the Aurora

     

So we are in the Northwest of Iceland. Though they call it the West. In a couple days we'll head toward Reykjavik

     

Don't know why but rhe seals sure seemed curious about us! The bubbles and the talking were one if the most beautiful things I've ever seen. Have to thank Taran for having us wait for awhile, otherwise would have missed it.  

Headed early to Hvammstangi, a seal museum and Visitor Center there.   

    

8/9 Len's Iceland Text 6

Slow boat to China yesterday, not in a rush. Stopped at Goddafoss Falls, a most powerful sight, the rushing falls crashing through a volcanic canyon. Took Jarad's and Sue's advice to just sit with ourselves, so we sat for two hrs absorbing the sounds, rainbows and mists of the falls 

Did some trucking to our next destination  Varmahlio where we would white water canoe all today.  Began to rain so we stayed in a "guest house" which is basic beds with no linen and a common bathroom. Dry and warm anyway! 

Today Class 4 rapids with excitable Nepalese  guides.  Class 4 means very big and fast waves.  Boats tipped over.  People floated off downstream.  They say, "Don't panic and be sure to smile as you float on your back".  

What I didn't tell you is we had dry suits on.  Then the guide says "anyone want to jump?"  Into a raging gray river from a rock 30 feet high?  Taran was the first to volunteer!  My heart sank when he plunged pencil style into the river. He popped up 10 seconds later and swam to shore.  Oh my god.    

After this I had to follow suit, otherwise be embarrassed by #3 son, so we became friends with the river.   It was ok to fall out of the boat and not think you were going to die.  

We are just finishing dinner at a coastal town called  Hofsos.   Heard about a hot  spring on the side of a mountain overlooking the bay.  Spent 2 hrs there recuperating !   

Iceland is cool.  No such thing here as a large cup of coffee.  They are all small and cost 3 Kronur (around $3.5).   Hasn't  been a cup below a  9.3 !  The Icelandic people are thrifty. Two buttons to choose  from to flush toilets # 1 or #2. 

Headed north tonight around a peninsula   Can fit a lot in, in an evening that stays lit till 11pm!  Anyway we are safe and well and in good spirits.  See you all in a week. Love Len and Taran

8/8 Taran's Iceland Text 2

It's raining a little bit, so we decided to spend the night in a hotel.  It's pretty nice just to be dry and warm and cozy. And we are definitely getting your texts, they are much appreciated! Am falling asleep now! Today we saw some amazing waterfalls! Tomorrow we go white water rafting! Love ya!

8/7 Len's Iceland Text 5

Hi there from Troll land!  Took some hikes today through very strange country.   Outcroppings of lava, looking and feeling like Easter Island. Taran took his own hike through a thermal basin and came back with clay packed boots. Looked like Herman Munster's !  

Big adventure today. We went whale watching on a "jet boat" out of Husavik.   800 horses blasting over 15 ft swells.   Just that was worth it!  THE BEST and most exciting roller coaster ride we've ever been on!   We  literally FLEW !

Came along side six whales. One minky, the rest humpbacks.   Got to breath their spray and hear their huge lungs blow in and out...like deep tanks.  It was an honor to be so close to them.  No wonder they are called gentle giants. 

Our boat held 12 passengers. Taran and I sat in front.  Had to wear heavy survival suits just in case. But we could spot a blow hundreds of feet away, and be there in seconds the boat was so fast!  Blue whales are sighted from time to time, though we didn't see any. 

Cruised around "Puffin Island" and learned a lot about these birds. Very cute with big red orange beaks.  Their beaks supposedly are too big for them to fly. 8 months of the year they are out to sea and never see land.  They come to this island to mate.  They dig a hole in the cliffs, get married and return to same home every year ! 

Ended our day in our favorite cave hot springs.  Soaked for an hour. Now need to face the cold night in the tent.  But not so bad. Once we get covered. 

Oh last thing.  Iceland is not for everyone.  There is a reason everyone wears Icelandic sweaters. That's why the only animals we see are sheep.  TO KEEP WARM! !    

All for now.  Do wish you were all here despite the cold nights. Much love.  Len and Taran

Ps.   Taran has read two books.  We read in between beautiful scenery. It is so good to see him absorbed in books again!